Remaking and Repairing a Classic short

Everyone’s got their favorite pair of shorts. The ones that no matter the damage (or if they still fit), will always be in the drawer. Back in December I was talking to a friend and he mentioned his favorite pair of shorts, the EMS Fencemender, were discontinued and he loved them so much he had a patternmaker friend make a pattern for them (dedication!). I offered to sew up a pair for him if he sent me the pattern so I could test out and practice some new sewing techniques and see how other patternmakers approach making a shorts pattern.

The green short is the original and the blue is the new version.  I was able to repair all the tears to the hem of the green shorts before returning them to the owner who also supplied me with the red webbing for the right side back thigh pocket (from another short that was worn beyond repair).

The amount of ease that was used on these was also very interesting. The waistband is 1 1/2” longer than the part of the body where the waistband attaches and the inseam gusset panel is about 1” longer than the corresponding seam.

It was a fun challenge to make the thigh pockets since they are pockets I have used on designs professionally but had never actually sewn myself. After sewing these pockets I have a better understanding on why pocket construction like these could add time and overall cost to a production garment. I like how the inside of the pocket window is enclosed inside the pocket bag creating a clean finish on the inside of the garment.