Recently came across this jacket while accessing my secret ski stash. I designed and made this jacket while studying apparel design at Seattle Central Community College and I still love it, the design, construction and sewing are fantastic. Seeing this piece makes me desperate to get a industrial sewing machine again that can make these consistent stitches like a needle feed Juki or Brother. I wish I made it a lot bigger, in school I was still learning the need for adding ease for movement and growing with age.
The design was inspired by this magazine tear of a trench coat by Hedi Slimane while working at Dior. I liked the idea of repurposing the front capes on a ski jacket that also needs to shed snow and rain. Since the front capes are loose it was a perfect place to have a hidden zipper pocket stashed under the largest front cape.
To create the structure of the front of the hood to stand up and cover the face I used a heavy non-woven interfacing on the front along with six snaps. Exposing all six at the front of the hood was to much so I hid five of the six snaps leaving one exposed to give a hint of what is underneath. The front of the hood hangs down and away from the face which I achieved by making the hood removable with 4 snaps on the collar and contouring the shape of the bottom edge of the hood to match the natural curve of the body.
There are two front #5 ykk vislon zipper hand pockets that have a waist bungee cord that exits from the left pocket bag.
At school I found a passion for not settling on the expected and had an inherent need for creating something of my own. When it came to decide the design and construction of the adjustable cuffs I tried to think of a system that would be easy to use but would also be different and feel more special and technical than a traditional self fabric tab with velcro. I ended up with a plastic rectangle as a fixed anchor for the adjustable part of the webbing. I created a tunnel inside the cuff to allow the webbing to move freely, the adjustable side of the webbing is attached to the cuff seam, the exits the welt to pass through the rectangle then return through the welt and tunnel to exit the other side and is able to be fixed in any place via very small increments with velcro.
The body and sleeves are lined and there is 1oz soft touch poly fill in the sleeves and 2 oz soft touch poly fill in the body. The inside zipper chest pocket on the right is in a corresponding place to the exterior zipper chest pocket on the left side.